What exactly is a "collar"? The prototype of "clothing" in Japan is the "kantoui" (a simple garment). The "kantoui" was originally thought to be made from "a single piece of cloth" with a hole for the head and the edges of the front and back pieces sewn together, leaving openings for the arms. However, recent understanding suggests it was made by sewing together two pieces of cloth woven to about half the width, leaving openings for the head and arms. This new theory is based on the fact that ancient cloth was woven on primitive looms, and the width of the cloth was narrow, about 30 cm. This more recent understanding is more natural and rational when considering the structure of the "kimono" as its prototype. What about other parts of the world? While ancient European weaving was also primitive, it seems that cloth wide enough to make garments like the "tunic*" (the prototype of ancient European clothing) was woven. In South America and Taiwan, the poncho is a similar type of garment. Ancient clothing did not have "collars." From here on, I will focus on the history of Western clothing. It is said that collars were devised and began to be used from the 14th to the early 15th centuries, with stand collars appearing for the purpose of warmth and reinforcing clothing. It is said that the prototype was made by gathering the edges of the neckline of the garment. In the mid-16th century, the gathered collar evolved, and the "ruff*" was devised in Spain as a separate accessory to be wrapped around the neck. The ruff, from its practicality of protecting clothing from dirt, took on a fashion aspect that displayed status, and evolved into an exaggerated form from the late 16th to the 17th centuries, becoming a huge trend among nobles and the wealthy, both men and women. Currently, the Elizabethan collar, which is attached to the necks of cats for hygiene reasons, is named after Elizabeth I of England, who loved the luxurious ruff. In the late 17th century, the wave of popularity subsided, and the ruff became more modest, with the "cravat*," the ancestor of the tie, gaining prominence. In the 19th century, modern folded collars became widespread, and detachable replacement collars were invented to reduce the burden of washing. With the invention and spread of washing machines, collars were once again sewn onto the garment itself. The collar, which transitioned from practical use to a symbol of status and then to a fashion item. The "ruff," which seems to speak for the times, is particularly interesting. Portraits of historical figures without "ruffs," starting with Elizabeth I, literally "don't make a picture." Amakusa Shiro even wore one, didn't he? Thank you for reading.