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フジャケルナ
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The Man and the Wave Rom et la vague: Surf (Softcover) M02911109015-V Published 2003 French book A book in the form of philosophical and intellectual essays related to surfing and waves. The author views "the surfer as a being who deviates from societal norms / a fluid being," combining the natural force of waves, the physical experience of surfing, and a cultural-philosophical perspective. It delves into the history of surfing, explaining its history up to the discovery of Nazaré. The author, Gibus de Soultrait, is known as a cultural writer in the French surfing scene, and this book can be considered a kind of "philosophy of surfing."
5 months ago